Maintenance

[Wa Mei]

Man, it's going to be a loooong weekend...fish are biting, but instead of fishing, I will be doing maintenance...

The old gal ran a little hot last weekend...she got to almost 200f on the
meter; it's usually at just below 190 if I am reading the meter correctly.
I am pretty good with doing maintenance every 100 hours, but I have to admit, I had let it go to almost 200 hours since February.

coolant are good, so I am going to change oil, raw water impeller, thermostats, fuel filters and the outdrive oil. Anything else I should look
into?

I will be installing a new Lewmar windlass also.

[NoSlack]

Test your thermostats in a pan of water on the stove. If you have a meat or candy thermometer that read to 180, use it to check the temp in the pan. On my 40 they are fully open around 160. If they'er not broke, don't spend money fixing them. There will be something else to spend that money on.

Pull your exhaust elbow off the turbo and give it a look. Take a look at the bottom end where the rubber boot mates on. Sometimes the slots where the exhaust and water come together get block by rust chunks, kelp that got by the stainer or anything else that worked it's way through the raw water system.

Most likely your problem will be in raw water impeller. Soap it up, it goes in a lot easier.

Mike

[Wa Mei]

Thank you for the info on the Exhaust elbow Mike. I will check it out and
also test the thermostats first. The thermostats specs for my engine model, KAD43 is 181F.

I agree, the most likely culprit is the impeller.

Regards,
Alan



Test your thermostats in a pan of water on the stove. If you have a meat or candy thermometer that read to 180, use it to check the temp in the pan. On my 40 they are fully open around 160. If they'er not broke, don't spend money fixing them. There will be something else to spend that money on.

Pull your exhaust elbow off the turbo and give it a look. Take a look at the bottom end where the rubber boot mates on. Sometimes the slots where the exhaust and water come together get block by rust chunks, kelp that got by the stainer or anything else that worked it's way through the raw water system.

Most likely your problem will be in raw water impeller. Soap it up, it goes in a lot easier.

Mike

[Wa Mei]

Update on my weekend project...

The new windlass has been installed. It was a much tougher project
than I thought, made tougher after a visit to the ER. In my haste
to get out from underneath the flybride after running the windlass
cable, I lifted my head up and ate the FF braket. Let's say the bracket
won the battle again my my gum and inner lip.

I am happy to find the smoking gun for my high water temp woes. I have
large pieces of the impeller stuck below the raw water pump. Must of been
from the last impeller that broke apart since the one in there right now it
intact. I manage to take one large piece out, but the rest fell below the
pump and into the tube below the pump. I tried to remove the tubing, but
my body was telling me no, so I showered and watch the Lakers almost
blow game 2.

Any trick on easily removing tubing anyone want to share?

[NoSlack]

You got yourself a prodject now. I've had this happen twice, with some of the pieces washing all the way back into the bottom of the water pickup slots in the outdrive.

Best bet is to remove the water pickup hose on the outdrive and the pipe on of the bottom of the pump. With a lot of water flow from a garden hose you should be able to flush out the pieces. There is one place the water pickup necks down to 3/4" and that was always the hardest place to flush the pieces from. Follow the hard pipe from the pump back and you should come to a rubber hose where that pipe connects to the transom shield. The hard tube that goes through the transom shield is the pinch point that will catch all the big pieces.

If that doesn't work you need to take each piece of the water pickup system off and flush then one at a time.

Mike

[Al Gagnon]

Not sure why but my Starboard runs warmer then the port. When I got the boat I was a nervous wreck about over heating. When I ran the boat over 3500 rpm (4000) wot., the temp would go to 200 deg and slowly climb. I installed Murphy mechanical gauges and set the alarm to 200 deg. The alarm has gone off 2 times since and both times I new their was a over tremp problem about 10 seconds before the alarm went off. One time a smelt the paint getting hot and slowed the engine down and then the alarm went off. I do not remember what happened the second time but I think it was kelp. I think the impeller let go the other time. When I checked the impeller, no blades. So I got good use out of that one. Remember that electonic/electric gauges are not the best. Murphy bgaueges are the best cost for the buck.

[Wa Mei]

Thank you for the information guys. I replaced the impeller and crossed my fingers that the large chunk that I removed yesterday will allow the smaller chunks to pass through and go to the strainer instead of tearing the whole thing apart...as luck would have it, it passed! There were a few small pieces in the strainer including small amount of kelp!

I will run her this weekend. If she's still running hot, I will tear the raw water intake apart as suggested by Mike.

[Al Gagnon]

When I lost the impeller, all the blades were gone. What I did was back flush the system and I would catch the water and see how much small pieces of rubber impeller came out. I did this many times untill nothing passed. I was able to piece the impeller back together and almost had a complete impeller. I back flushed from the filter back to the pump hose.. It worked great and I flet that I was able to retrieve all of the rubber from the impeller. My engine seems to run cooler then before when I go close to wide open throttle.