AQD40A Strainer

[Moo Fish]

Any tricks or boobytraps in getting the RW strainer off the water pump. There is a small bolt on the bottom of the strainer. Assume this comes out and the strainer prys off the piping with some type of gasket /o-ring seal. I see the plastic basket cracking if the hammer and pipewrench approach is used.Inlet piping is flexible but the outlet is hard piping to the HE. The RW pump seal has begun to drip.

rt

[NoSlack]

The AQD has a much smaller basket than the AQAD so this may not be true for your engine.

The AQAD has "C" shaped clips that hold the tubes in the bottom of the basket. The clips are held in place by one bolt each(13mm wrench) on the underside of the basket. The bolts thread into a brass nut molded into the bottom of the basket.

The tubes are sealed to the basket with a goofy rectangle shaped O-ring. The o-rings are round, just made out of a rectangular material, like they were cut out of a 1/4" sheet of rubber. Generally they are tough to re-use, they get stretched out and tend to pinch if re-used.

Mike

[hijole]

Use a small mirror to see what you are looking at from the bottom of the strainer.
On the AQAD 41A I use a 1/8 drive 10mm socket with a long extension to remove the bolt.
The bolt holds a braket that pushes the two pipes up against the strainer. Each pipe has a plastic ring that wraps around each pipe. These plastic parts are round and cut in half to fit around the pipe. I have replaced them several times because they have cracked.
Remove the bolts that connect the strainer to the engine and wiggle it up and off.
Each of the pipes has a rubber o-ring gasket.

[Moo Fish]

That gasket / attachment strategy is a real PITA. I have a bunch of other VP strainers that are self contained but would require replumbing the inlet /outlet, cutting the hard outlet line, and a new mounting bracket. The strainer is not leaking but the raw water pump is dripping at the shaft seal. Got to remove the strainer to pull the raw water pump.

What happened to the valve adjustment tutorial?? I have an engine manual that says to turn the engine over until (for example) valves on cylinder 5 rock and adjust the valves on cylinder 1. This sounds too simple.....rt

[hijole]

Taking the pump off is a snap after you take the strainer off. Two bolts (13mm) and it comes right off. when you take the impeller off, there is a $7 seal that goes inside. Thats the culprit to replace to stop the leaking.
I'll be on the Hijole Saturday afternoon. Bring the seal and the pump and we can replace it there. By the way, if you bring another seal, we can replace the one that goes inside the pump.

We can also do a quick tutorial on adjusting the valves.
You can start on any cylinder that is at TDC. We talked about this at the BBQ.To much to explain here. Maybe NoSlack can run some pics.

[Moo Fish]

OK, going to pull the pump and see what's going on.....Who's your parts guy??? I have priced the seals at $40 each (2 req'ed) and 4 rubber washers at $5 each. Rebuild kit is $260ish and a new pump is $360ish!! And the pump cover is labeled "Jabsco". Maybe the pump is a Jabsco or someone cobbled up a cover somewhere.

I'll be in SD on Saturday on (monkey)business. What dock??

rt

[hijole]

You can get the seal from Blackman during the week, or Admiralty Marine in Shelter Island. There talk to Mike Loomis. I'm sure if you call them they will confirm the price. I can't remember the price of the rubber washers but Michael will tell you over the phone. I think you will need 5 of them.
I think I'm on D dock at the end, 41 or 42. It's the dock in front of the deli.

[Moo Fish]

....on the strainer / raw water pump:

Blackman's had the BEST prices and availability on the various seals, o-rings, and impellers. Be sure to bring a present for Shirley! Try not to covet those brand new boats.

San Diego Marine Exchange has a Johnson (made in Sweden) raw water pump applicable to the 40 and 41 series for $250ish. Way cheaper than the VP dealers.

Check the cam in the raw water pump when you replace the impeller. The cam will develop sharp edges and chop up the impeller. Again, San Diego Marine Exchange has the cam for $12. Check for wear on the cover plate.

Now to wrestle with the valves for awhile.

Hats off to Hijole for the advice.

rt