Sleigher
11-29-2005, 03:42 PM
It ocurred to me that I ask questions but rarely provide closure. It just aint right, so listed below are results of questions that I've asked. Of course, this is a pre-cursor to another question.
First off, Thanks in Particular to Mike (No Slack) who is always very helpful.
Rudder Bushing: Turns out the one that I made out of UHWM was doing just fine. I didn't need to make a new one. If I did I was going to use Delrin which is similar but a little harder. I asked Don Blackman about this a few years ago and I remember him saying something about Delrin.
I did repack the rudder bushing. It uses 1/4 inch packing material. I found it easiest to do by removing the bushing and dropping the rudder low enough to take the gland nut off the top. Whoever had packed it last time did not cut the packing and simply wound it in the gland nut. I used a very squishy packing material that I purchased from McMaster Carr. I did have to disassemble part of the trailer to get the rudder low enough. I'll need to dunk the boat to make sure it doesn't leak too much.
Removing the Injectors:
This was quite a project. I began the project because one or two of the injectors were leaking past their seat. I bought the Volvo removal tool which was a must. Most of the injectors came out fine. The one that was leaking bad was very carbonized and did not want to come out. It took about 45 minutes for the first five and 2.5 hours for the last one.
Once out I had all of the injectors rebuilt at a Bosch shop near my home in Whittier. They were not in great shape.
I re-installed them all but had problems with some of the studs which were bent from the removal project.
I started off buying some metric studs (#8 but I don't remember the pitch)from a hardware store. These sucked and I could not get any torque on them. I then went back to my trusty McMaster Carr and had a couple different hardened studs with matching nuts delivered. These worked bitchin!
Unfortunately the injector still leaked around the seat. I tried various approaches to correct the problems with the seat which is actually the copper tube. All attempts made it worse. I even used lapping compound on the injector itself and spun it in the tube with a drill.
I ended up ordering a new tube from McDonnel Marine.
It takes special tools to remove the old tool and reset the new one. They were about $400 bucks. Paul at McDonnel Marine offered to lend me theirs. I jumped at the offer and they shipped them out to me with the parts (they are in Connecticut). Even with the tools it was tough pulling the tube, If anybody needs help I would be glad to fill them in. You can buy the pulling tool from- you guessed it: McMaster Carr but the reseating tool is Volvo as far as I can tell. After replacing the tube my leaks were all gone.
Raw Water pump:
I was able to purchase all of the parts from McDonnel Marine for the re-building. The timing case cover was pretty pitted but I used some black Permatex on the surface and I haven't had any problems.
Fiberglass Repairs: I haven't done this yet, I am pretty sure that I will haul the boat to Blackman or Crystaliner.
Pumping out the Fishbox:
I looked at the macerator pumps but they were too finicky having to be mounted outside of the box and all plus they were not cheap. I bought a simple 500gph rule and plunked it in there where the 800 gph one was and I'm done with it. If I have to clean it out now and again I'm ok with that.
Fuel Gauge: Haven't started this one yet. Not that big a deal as I usually fill up before every trip anyhow. But it's on my list.
I think that provides closure for the projects that I have asked for help with.
Thanks again to anybody that helped.
Peter
First off, Thanks in Particular to Mike (No Slack) who is always very helpful.
Rudder Bushing: Turns out the one that I made out of UHWM was doing just fine. I didn't need to make a new one. If I did I was going to use Delrin which is similar but a little harder. I asked Don Blackman about this a few years ago and I remember him saying something about Delrin.
I did repack the rudder bushing. It uses 1/4 inch packing material. I found it easiest to do by removing the bushing and dropping the rudder low enough to take the gland nut off the top. Whoever had packed it last time did not cut the packing and simply wound it in the gland nut. I used a very squishy packing material that I purchased from McMaster Carr. I did have to disassemble part of the trailer to get the rudder low enough. I'll need to dunk the boat to make sure it doesn't leak too much.
Removing the Injectors:
This was quite a project. I began the project because one or two of the injectors were leaking past their seat. I bought the Volvo removal tool which was a must. Most of the injectors came out fine. The one that was leaking bad was very carbonized and did not want to come out. It took about 45 minutes for the first five and 2.5 hours for the last one.
Once out I had all of the injectors rebuilt at a Bosch shop near my home in Whittier. They were not in great shape.
I re-installed them all but had problems with some of the studs which were bent from the removal project.
I started off buying some metric studs (#8 but I don't remember the pitch)from a hardware store. These sucked and I could not get any torque on them. I then went back to my trusty McMaster Carr and had a couple different hardened studs with matching nuts delivered. These worked bitchin!
Unfortunately the injector still leaked around the seat. I tried various approaches to correct the problems with the seat which is actually the copper tube. All attempts made it worse. I even used lapping compound on the injector itself and spun it in the tube with a drill.
I ended up ordering a new tube from McDonnel Marine.
It takes special tools to remove the old tool and reset the new one. They were about $400 bucks. Paul at McDonnel Marine offered to lend me theirs. I jumped at the offer and they shipped them out to me with the parts (they are in Connecticut). Even with the tools it was tough pulling the tube, If anybody needs help I would be glad to fill them in. You can buy the pulling tool from- you guessed it: McMaster Carr but the reseating tool is Volvo as far as I can tell. After replacing the tube my leaks were all gone.
Raw Water pump:
I was able to purchase all of the parts from McDonnel Marine for the re-building. The timing case cover was pretty pitted but I used some black Permatex on the surface and I haven't had any problems.
Fiberglass Repairs: I haven't done this yet, I am pretty sure that I will haul the boat to Blackman or Crystaliner.
Pumping out the Fishbox:
I looked at the macerator pumps but they were too finicky having to be mounted outside of the box and all plus they were not cheap. I bought a simple 500gph rule and plunked it in there where the 800 gph one was and I'm done with it. If I have to clean it out now and again I'm ok with that.
Fuel Gauge: Haven't started this one yet. Not that big a deal as I usually fill up before every trip anyhow. But it's on my list.
I think that provides closure for the projects that I have asked for help with.
Thanks again to anybody that helped.
Peter