Import Manager
05-01-2004, 07:48 AM
#0, outdrive steering loose
Posted by KnotNow on Apr-12-04 at 10:51 AM
LAST EDITED ON Apr-12-04 AT 12:07 PM (PST)
I got the Knot Now home. She needs several little repairs (to be expected). The outdrive steering is loose, allowing about 5-10 degrees of movement. The problem appears to be the steering fork bushings and "helmet bolt". The bushing in the helmet is also worn. Has anybody else also had this problem? It doesn't look to be too hard to replace these parts. Any suggestions. Just take off the outdrive, remove the fork/helmet assembly?
thanks,
Phil
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#1, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by moo fish on Apr-12-04 at 02:18 PM
In response to message #0
All ears on this one. I have at least 45 degrees slop in the steering. Cumulative between the helm (mechanical steering) and the outdrive. Most of the slop is in the helm.The helmut and steering arm bushings are not VP strong points. The steering arm grease fitting is tough to get to and often is neglected. The Wizard can give you a real saga on the steering arm.....rt
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#2, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Nomad on Apr-12-04 at 03:49 PM
In response to message #0
Mike (No Slack) can fill you in on this one. He just described the process to me when we were replacing the upper Bellows on the Nomad.
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#3, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by NoSlack on Apr-12-04 at 06:59 PM
In response to message #0
Start out by picking up a copy of the Volvo Stern Drive Shop Manual by Clymer. It's weak on diesel info but covers all the outdrives from head to toe.
Believe it or not, 5-10 degrees isn't that uncommon on a Volvo outdrive. The bushings on the steering fork are plastic and do wear out. The helmet nut is stainless and the bushing it rides in looks to be chromed brass or some other soft metal.
You need to remove the upper gearbox to change any of the bushings you mentioned. The only thing that holds the steering fork in the transom shield is the steering arm that is clamped to it on the inside. If you have trim indication you need to disconnect and remove that, loosen the clamp bolt for the steering arm and it should push down through the bushings to the outside. Ya right
I probably should mention the steering arm is steel and the fork shaft splines are aluminum. Can you say "fused together". You will need to heat the arm and beat the shaft through it with a sledge hammer and a 1" dowel. This will be a constant reminder to always grease the shaft bushings in the future.
The helmet nut is removed by screwing in 2 1/4-20 bolts in the other 2 hole after you remove the 2 allen bolts. The bushing treads in from the back side of the helmet. I can't remember if you can buy the bushing separate of you need to buy a new helmet with a bushing in it.
for a good parts breakdown on the outdrives, go to http://volvopentaparts.stemtostern.com/VolvoDiagrams/volvo_penta_parts.asp and select you drive.
Mike
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#4, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Wizard on Apr-12-04 at 07:54 PM
In response to message #3
Yes, I have already been all through this. I had a water leak that turns out not to have been related to worn bushings and bad seal on my steering fork. But when the bilge pump wiring came off the switch, and I got some water in the boat, the water did come in that bad seal.
So, I took my boat in to get outdrive service and asked for them to look into the leak. First thing I got told was the fork had to be pulled and new bushings/seal installed because it rocked back and forth about 5-8 degrees. Well, to make a long story short, the setscrew on my steering fork was busted off or stripped and could not be removed with the engine in the boat. I have a DP-D outdrive, which does not have splines like most of the rest.
Anyhow, 5K later, engine removed, setscrew machined out, new bushings and seal, engine reinstalled. I still have 5 degrees of slop.
At least I got the opportunity to completely go through the motor, new gaskets on all ancilliary stuff, new bolts throughout, 100% painted, engine service, etc. While it was out, I spent two weekends sanding and repainting the bilge, remounting everything with new hardware.
I have a KAD-42, a repower where it used to be a KAD-40. This motor fits in the hole with about .0001 mm to spare. So getting behind it even after removing the turbo was impossible. I noticed the 40 and 41s have a lot more room.
Good luck with it. If it turns out you have a DP-D, I can offer a lot more detail. I even bought a spare steering fork, arm and hood off ebay to redo it myself someday because I thought the slop could be fixed. Having the spare, if you have the DP-D, will let you get a look at one uninstalled. But chances are you have the more common splined like Mike said, which in itself looks like a pain.
Glenn
(Wizard)
"The Reel One"
26' Billfisher
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#5, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by KnotNow on Apr-13-04 at 07:11 AM
In response to message #4
Well, my luck is still holding.
We decide to take the outdrive out as a unit and not take the upper gear box off as there is a lot of growth inside there I wanted to remove. We made a puller for the pins using a 7/16 threaded rod, 1 1/4 socket and some nuts and washers. They came out with not too much trouble.
I must have the DP-D as the steering fork is four-sided not splined.
It came out with a little persuasion (wedges between the transom shield and the fork). We got the bushing out of the helmet by cutting two slots in the bushing (not all the way through) and knocking out a small part of the bushing, then the larger part. Did not even damage one thread. The upper bushing came out with a hammer and screwdrive. Tonight I am going to clean her up and start painting.
Phil
Knot Now
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#6, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Wizard on Apr-13-04 at 07:27 AM
In response to message #5
Glad to hear you're having luck so far with it. Sounds like you have the DP-D. It is a four-sided setup, not splines. At least I think that design doesn't seize up with corrosion.
Glenn
"The Reel One"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#7, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Captn_Hook on Apr-13-04 at 09:13 AM
In response to message #4
LAST EDITED ON Apr-13-04 AT 09:17 AM (PST)
Nice work!
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#8, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Sleigher on Apr-15-04 at 07:46 AM
In response to message #0
I'm really loving my inboard right now!
Posted by KnotNow on Apr-12-04 at 10:51 AM
LAST EDITED ON Apr-12-04 AT 12:07 PM (PST)
I got the Knot Now home. She needs several little repairs (to be expected). The outdrive steering is loose, allowing about 5-10 degrees of movement. The problem appears to be the steering fork bushings and "helmet bolt". The bushing in the helmet is also worn. Has anybody else also had this problem? It doesn't look to be too hard to replace these parts. Any suggestions. Just take off the outdrive, remove the fork/helmet assembly?
thanks,
Phil
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by moo fish on Apr-12-04 at 02:18 PM
In response to message #0
All ears on this one. I have at least 45 degrees slop in the steering. Cumulative between the helm (mechanical steering) and the outdrive. Most of the slop is in the helm.The helmut and steering arm bushings are not VP strong points. The steering arm grease fitting is tough to get to and often is neglected. The Wizard can give you a real saga on the steering arm.....rt
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#2, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Nomad on Apr-12-04 at 03:49 PM
In response to message #0
Mike (No Slack) can fill you in on this one. He just described the process to me when we were replacing the upper Bellows on the Nomad.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#3, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by NoSlack on Apr-12-04 at 06:59 PM
In response to message #0
Start out by picking up a copy of the Volvo Stern Drive Shop Manual by Clymer. It's weak on diesel info but covers all the outdrives from head to toe.
Believe it or not, 5-10 degrees isn't that uncommon on a Volvo outdrive. The bushings on the steering fork are plastic and do wear out. The helmet nut is stainless and the bushing it rides in looks to be chromed brass or some other soft metal.
You need to remove the upper gearbox to change any of the bushings you mentioned. The only thing that holds the steering fork in the transom shield is the steering arm that is clamped to it on the inside. If you have trim indication you need to disconnect and remove that, loosen the clamp bolt for the steering arm and it should push down through the bushings to the outside. Ya right
I probably should mention the steering arm is steel and the fork shaft splines are aluminum. Can you say "fused together". You will need to heat the arm and beat the shaft through it with a sledge hammer and a 1" dowel. This will be a constant reminder to always grease the shaft bushings in the future.
The helmet nut is removed by screwing in 2 1/4-20 bolts in the other 2 hole after you remove the 2 allen bolts. The bushing treads in from the back side of the helmet. I can't remember if you can buy the bushing separate of you need to buy a new helmet with a bushing in it.
for a good parts breakdown on the outdrives, go to http://volvopentaparts.stemtostern.com/VolvoDiagrams/volvo_penta_parts.asp and select you drive.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#4, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Wizard on Apr-12-04 at 07:54 PM
In response to message #3
Yes, I have already been all through this. I had a water leak that turns out not to have been related to worn bushings and bad seal on my steering fork. But when the bilge pump wiring came off the switch, and I got some water in the boat, the water did come in that bad seal.
So, I took my boat in to get outdrive service and asked for them to look into the leak. First thing I got told was the fork had to be pulled and new bushings/seal installed because it rocked back and forth about 5-8 degrees. Well, to make a long story short, the setscrew on my steering fork was busted off or stripped and could not be removed with the engine in the boat. I have a DP-D outdrive, which does not have splines like most of the rest.
Anyhow, 5K later, engine removed, setscrew machined out, new bushings and seal, engine reinstalled. I still have 5 degrees of slop.
At least I got the opportunity to completely go through the motor, new gaskets on all ancilliary stuff, new bolts throughout, 100% painted, engine service, etc. While it was out, I spent two weekends sanding and repainting the bilge, remounting everything with new hardware.
I have a KAD-42, a repower where it used to be a KAD-40. This motor fits in the hole with about .0001 mm to spare. So getting behind it even after removing the turbo was impossible. I noticed the 40 and 41s have a lot more room.
Good luck with it. If it turns out you have a DP-D, I can offer a lot more detail. I even bought a spare steering fork, arm and hood off ebay to redo it myself someday because I thought the slop could be fixed. Having the spare, if you have the DP-D, will let you get a look at one uninstalled. But chances are you have the more common splined like Mike said, which in itself looks like a pain.
Glenn
(Wizard)
"The Reel One"
26' Billfisher
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#5, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by KnotNow on Apr-13-04 at 07:11 AM
In response to message #4
Well, my luck is still holding.
We decide to take the outdrive out as a unit and not take the upper gear box off as there is a lot of growth inside there I wanted to remove. We made a puller for the pins using a 7/16 threaded rod, 1 1/4 socket and some nuts and washers. They came out with not too much trouble.
I must have the DP-D as the steering fork is four-sided not splined.
It came out with a little persuasion (wedges between the transom shield and the fork). We got the bushing out of the helmet by cutting two slots in the bushing (not all the way through) and knocking out a small part of the bushing, then the larger part. Did not even damage one thread. The upper bushing came out with a hammer and screwdrive. Tonight I am going to clean her up and start painting.
Phil
Knot Now
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#6, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Wizard on Apr-13-04 at 07:27 AM
In response to message #5
Glad to hear you're having luck so far with it. Sounds like you have the DP-D. It is a four-sided setup, not splines. At least I think that design doesn't seize up with corrosion.
Glenn
"The Reel One"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#7, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Captn_Hook on Apr-13-04 at 09:13 AM
In response to message #4
LAST EDITED ON Apr-13-04 AT 09:17 AM (PST)
Nice work!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#8, RE: outdrive steering loose
Posted by Sleigher on Apr-15-04 at 07:46 AM
In response to message #0
I'm really loving my inboard right now!