Injection pump leak

Well, crap. The diesel drip coming from between the two halves of the fuel injection pump has turned into more than a drip. Can anyone ballpark me a price/time for a repair or replacement? Last I heard, they have to send the pump up to LA or Long Beach to some guru who takes the thing up the mountain to diagnosis the extent of the problem, then comes down and demands your first born as payment. Maybe not quite so dramatic but it sounded like it could be some $$$. Like most things, rumor has it that the pump is really easy to take off but not so simple to re-install correctly which of course means that labor is going to be a killer. Any words of advice?

The engine is a AQAD40B.

Never messed with the pump just the injectors.

In San Diego you will check with Advance Diesel Injection, 3134 Main Street, 619-232-5723. They also have a shop in Santee.

I remember a guy on J dock with a plastic doll did his for about $500

She was worth every penny until she sprang a leak and I think the pump rebuild was closer to $750

Sorry to hear about the injector pump leak. I never had problems with the pump but, like others I have had to replace just about every injector line in the engine (when I had the AQAD40B). I know someone who surely knows the answer.....Mike?

In San Diego I would go with Advanced Diesel on main as well. Always been very helpfull and I though the price was right when they were done.

The injector pump is one of the few things I would leave to the pros.

Mike

where is she now? Ever since she sprung a leak she's off the welcoming committee.

Will Advanced Diesel just do rebuilds or will they remove and replace the pump as well?

The street parking is very limited, and I've never been around the back to see if they have room for a boat.

I would give them a call and ask if they have a field service guy that would pull the pump and re-install it for you. They might be able to give enough over the phone support that you would feel comfortable enough doing it yourself.

Mike

I think that I have heard that the installation of the pump is the hard part because you need a special gauge that reads runout (or something like that) in order to properly set the timing of the pump. That is, the timing is critical and just like a distributor in that rotation of the pump changes the timing.

Taking the pump out isn't bad. You have to take the water pump out and then the pump just pops off the back.
Putting it back is a little tougher as you need to get the timing set right.
The Volvo TDC tool makes it easier.
You also need a dial indicator and some other special Volvo tools to help set up the indicator.
I think the tools cost me about a hundred bucks not including the dial indicator.
I pulled all my lines and then installed the indicator (it goes in the center of the pump) then I turned the engine over. When it gets to TDC the pin drops in the hole. Then I read what the indicator said. It's something like 2.8 mm. I checked a few times and then pulled the pump.
When I put it back I just made sure to get the gears in the same place and then adjusted so that it was like it was before I pulled it out.
I didn't do anything to the pump besides replace the o-rings.
I imagine you could find a Bosch shop and have them rebuild the pump. Probably a lot cheaper than taking it to a place that works on Volvo.
Hope that helped.

P

Good and easy info to follow to do it yourself.
If you are willing to pay Advance to do the job, why not take it off and make an appointment with Blackman to install?
They won't be more expensive and John will probably teach you how to do it yourself.

I gave the guys at Advanced Diesel a call and the pricing was consistent with what's been posted here. They do rebuilds but won't remove or install it, so it looks like we've got a do-it-yourself job here. When you get a chance, I'd like to get some more info on the tools that are required, sleigher.

You need a mechanic that has done it before. I did mine with a mechanic's help and it was demanding. There is a Volvo tool that has a long pin which slips in a hole in the back of the motor; you rotate the crankshaft until the pin slips in and locks up the crank with the #1 piston @ Top Dead Center; then you bolt on the fuel pump loosely and insert a dial guage in the end which indicates the pump cam position at TDC; you rotate the pump to adjust the dial guage to a certain position and then lock down the bolts and hope it doesn't change while you're securing it. It will move, we did it 3 times and got it as close as we could. The pump adjustment is for timing, just light the old distributors. That was 3-4 years ago and that's my basic memory of it; I don't remember what the measurements to the guage were.

I think there might be a couple of o-rings to replace on the back side of the pump as well; for shaft lubrication.

Well, as far as mechanics go, Pops is top notch. As far as Volvo mechanics go, we're pretty green. Trying to decide if it's worth it to tackle alone or if I should pony up the green to have someone else have a go. I don't have any connections that will help me remove it: at this point I'm either doing it myself or taking it to O'side Marine. They do good work but they sure aren't shy about having you pay for it.

One of the most frusturating things that I've run into is the lack of printed instructions.

Like Jeff said you need the long tool. But I'll start from scratch:
The TDC tool is a spring loaded pin that screws into the housing below the turbo (sorta). (My engine is a TAMD41A) so all of this is based on my engine.
To pull the pump you need to remove all the lines first.
What I did was make it so I could get the timing tool into the pump before I removed the pump itself. That way I could see how it was before I bunged anything up.
The long pin is basically a shaft which screws into the back of the pump. It has a pin which slides inside. This pin rests on a cam inside the injecion pump. As the motor rotates, rotating the pump, this cam raises and lowers. When you set the timing you are making sure that the pump injects at the right time.
The other end of the pin rests against your dial indicator. Ideally, you can get a dial indicator that screws into the other end of the shaft. You then "zero" your dial indicator and then watch the pin go up and down as it rides on the cam.
I didn't get a dial indicator that screwed into the end of the shaft so I had to improvise with an awful lot of electrical tape. The idea was to have the indicator firmly attached to the end of the shaft. It worked fine. The test is if the indicator moves the same every time.
There are o-rings behind the pump which is why I pulled mine.
When you are done you will need to rid a lot of air from your system. Mine definitely took a while to start but I might have an issue with my lift pump. After the first time though it started right up every time and has for about a hundred hours now.
As an aside, it did not want to shut off. Which is common because while the pump is out the solenoid which closes momentarily can get dry or dirty or loose connections. It is funny that after struggling to get it started again you can't shut it off.
So, I hope that helps.
I'd be happy to loan you the tools if you want to come get them. I'd even spend a little time walking you through it again. I live in Whittier.

Peter

Peter,
I really appreciate your offer and would like to take you up on it. I'll be in touch to set up a time in the next week or two. Can't wait to get this done and getting back on the water.

Thanks!

Dan

Peter,
I sent you a PM last week. Give me a call when you get a chance.

Thanks,
Dan

Edit: Does anyone know where Peter went? I've hesitated to go to a marine mechanic for this because I know it's not going to be cheap but having the boat out of the water is starting to drive me crazy!!! I'm gonna bite the bullet next week and take the BT in.

I'm updating this thread just in case anyone needs a reference in the future:

Just about 2 months later, the fuel pump is back in the Bimini Twist. It's a full day to remove and a full day to replace; it's really not too difficult a job but getting everything lined up just right takes quite a bit of patience. The reason it took me so long from start to finish is that I'm about an hour and a half from the boat and it seems like I've been to a wedding every other weekend this summer.

After removing the pump, we took it down to PCE (Propulsion Controls Eng) in San Diego. It took them about a week for the rebuild. From what I was told, there are high pressure control valves in the pump and one of them had failed. As a result of the uncontrolled high pressure the gaskets in the pump housing had blown out, causing the leak. I'm hoping that the high pressure was also a factor in the rather poor fuel mileage we were getting (<2 mpg). Final price tag from PCE was around $850 including parts, plus tax.

I took some photos along the way but I'm not sure how comprehensive they are. I can try and put together a photo tutorial if anyone thinks it would be helpful but I'm also willing to walk someone through the project in person, too.

There's a trick or two that can save some time (and frustration) during re-installation but it's pretty easy to trial-and-error your way through the process. As long as you get the timing right, there's really only one way that all the pieces will fit back together. The engine runs fine with the new pump but now I'm having some problems seating the strainer so that it's leak free. I'm using RTV Gasket Material to seal any gaps, however, I haven't been able to get the engine side to stop dripping.

I need to say thanks again to Peter, former owner of the Longfin, for letting me borrow the pump timing tool, TDC lock, and manual even after he sold his boat.

I need to get the raw water pump going and then we'll see you in the water.

What part of the raw water system is leaking? The o-rings on the tubes that seal them to the basket are a 1 time use. I try and use new ones every time I pull the basket off the pipes. It,s also real important to adjust the tube bracket so the tubes line up to the holes in the basket.

Mike

Mike,
First of all, I didn't replace the o-rings...I didn't know that they are a one-time use item. Can you recommend a place to pick them up or do you know of a place closer to North County that carries them? The leak I have right now is on the engine side (post-strainer). There's a small piece of metal tubing approx 4 inches long that stays in the strainer housing when I pull it off the the tube that leads to the engine. As the third owner of the engine, I'm not sure if this is a factory job or a bubble gum patch job.

Thanks,
Dan

EDIT: I found 4 seal rings and 2 clamps at an on-line auction store for $10. Just bought them and should have them in my hand in a few days if you can't find any. Do a google search for Volvo 845354, one site had them for $3 each

The part number you are looking for is 845354-0 and only fits the AQAD40. Call around before you waist any gas looking for it. I picked up my last bag at The Boat Store by the Sports Arena.

Make sure all the tubes line up and go in straight to the holes. You may need to adjust your clamps to get everything lined up without cocking or pinching an o-ring.

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/512/parts.jpg

Here's a shot of clamp #23 that holds the discharge tube in the basket. I do use a little red RTV on the seal rings when I install them. More for the lube so they will slide than a sealer.

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/512/IM001579.JPG

This shot is the short tube that goes between the pump and basket. The parts breakdowm shows a second clamp on it to hold it in the basket. I don't have that clamp.

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/512/IM001580.JPG

This shot shows the clamp for the suction pipe that runs along the oil pan seam on the port side. I also use a few ty-raps around the forward enginge support to hold it up into the pump. The parts breakdown shows a clamp #52 that bolts to the front of the pump. I don't have that one eather.

http://www.bocaboard.com/data/512/IM001581.JPG

Here is a link to a parts breakdown for all the clamps and stuff that go with the basket. There are a lot more clamps than I have installed on my engine. No telling how many got lost or tossed before I got the boat.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP...ND%20EX(1).pdf

Your photo makes clamp no. 23 look soooo easy. Geting everything lined up, o-rings seated, and finally, clamp no. 23. There is some luck involved....


.....and, just got a Dodge Cummins back from an injector pump rebuild. The mechanic insists the ULSD will scour the injector pump / injectors plus turn the gaskets to mush.

RT

I heard the new diesel is going to be hard on the old school engines. Maybe insurance will cover a failure and I can upgrade to a D4.

Mike

Maybe I can get a D6:rolleyes:
Phil

Mike,
I think I found the same auction as you did (guy must have had more than one kit). I hope those rings get here pronto. I was going to offer you the clamp on the basket side but it sounds like you'll be getting one of your own. Thanks for taking the time to post those pics and part numbers.

Dan

Got them in the mail on friday if you need some to get going this weekend.

Mike