Duo-Prop Rebuild or Replace????

Now that my new boat deal has fallen thru, I am going to replace or rebuild my outdrive, update my electronics and all my canvas. What can I expect to replace my outdrive. I am dealing with Bay Marine in Signal Hill, and looking to see if his price is compatable. 41B Volvo was replaced and currently has about 500 hrs. It does not look like the outdrive was replaced at that time.

Old electronics to replace

Regency Polaris Direction Finder
Old Benmar auto-pilot Course setter
1622 Furuno radar 16 mile

Any recommendations
Thanks Mike

I replaced my outdrive with a factory rebuilt (NEW) at 1700+ hours. Volvo recommends rebuild or replace at 1000 hours. Blackman told me it usually costs 3000-4500 to rebuild. I think I paid ~ 5500 for the unit from Blackman and I installed it myself. I had my unit off last year, so it came off easily. I also replaced the drive-shaft bearing.

I am also looking for new electronics....I really want to go to a PC/laptop system, but... I was not impressed with the new platinum charts for the west coast, so I my go with the discontinued RL series from Raymarine.
Phil

I replaced my outdrive for about $6K, from Outdrive Exchange in Costa Mesa about 1.5 years ago. I personally don't trust very many shops to rebuild, but a brand new one from Volvo Penta comes with a warranty, prefilled with gear lube, etc. I've been learning a lot about how many people claim to have detailed Volvo Penta experience, but then they just have their rookie mechanics do the work while the supposed 'expert' on staff works on other stuff (once again, my experience). I've even had to have my new outdrive re-shimmed. Heard a bit too much noise after 1 year, and determined that after everything wears in, sometimes a little play can develop.

As for taking it off, I took mine back off last month. Even after only having been on there for 1.5 years, I had to make a special tool to pull the large pivot pins. Once you get the outdrive off, you may notice you want to replace not only the bellows, of course, but the water pickup S hose, o-rings, bolts (about $51.00 for hose and a bit tricky if motor installed).

As for electronics, if I had a boat with a hard top flybridge, I would move into the integrated PC based stuff. But for now, I couldn't be happier with my Furuno FCV582 fish finder. I am still thinking about a newer GPS and radar someday.

I hope you were not referring to me, about not knowing much :D
For better or worse I have done all the repairs on my boat....
I have aquired several special tools for Volvo Penta
I still don't know a lot about boats, but I am learning.:eek:

I have a FCV582 with a triducer. Its a very good unit...if I keep this unit, I will to replace the triducer with a 1KW high performance transducer. I have used the Raymarine system with a DSM250 and 1KW transducer and like it very much.

My radar quit, so I am thinking of a radar with a chart overlay and I have a Garmin 182c plotter.
You can get a very good deal on the 182C as its a discontinued model...I saw them at the boat show for less than $500.
I would recommend the largest GPS/plotter you can afford.
Phil

As far as electronics go, I currently have the Furuno 582 FF also which can show you everything you need to see; I need to replace my old Furuno RADAR and I'm leaning towards either the 1732 2.2KW LCD unit or the more commercial type 1731 4KW CRT unit. I'm a little concerned about the extra energy of the 4KW unit directed back at me as my dome is mounted forward on my flybridge , not up on the arch. My old unit was 3KW. I've had the 10" Garmin 2010C Color Chartplotter for over 1 year and it is worth every dollar I paid for it; easy to use and read. As far as radios go, I have a Standard DSC capable radio with a scrambler; I would go with the new ICOM 602 which is DSC ready. I have a Polaris 7200 also but nobody works on them anymore, they were great radios! Simrad AP11 or 14 make an excellant Autopilot choice, many newer Blackmans have them.

Is your drive making noise or won't go into gear? I would rebuild unless the case is in bad shape. A re-shim job every 1000 hours really extends the service life of the drives IMHO.

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I'm a little concerned about the extra energy of the 4KW unit directed back at me as my dome is mounted forward on my flybridge , not up on the arch. My old unit was 3KW.

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Go for the 4KW now, that 3KW probably fried all the little future seamen you didn't need anyhow... :D

The helmet has a lot of play in it, 2-3" in each direction. The props do make a little noise when I cruise in on a kelp paddy in neutral. I had the u-joints service not to long ago by John at Blackmans shop.

Mike

The helmet play is probably the nylon plastic bushings which wear out fast; I replaced mine last spring and 350 hrs later the slop is back although not quite 2-3". As for the sound as your boat glides forward in neutral, I bet they all do that, my factory new rebuild does it! Irregular clunking noises or vibration are all the bad signs to be on the lookout for.

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Originally Posted by Wizard

Go for the 4KW now, that 3KW probably fried all the little future seamen you didn't need anyhow... :D

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I'm not worried about the nuts:eek: ; it was the headaches that started after 4 hours on the days with the RADAR on!:confused:

I'm not impressed with the steering play on Volvo outdrives... 2 years ago had AMS lamers replace them, and they did such a poor job, they told me the 2" after the job was normal. This year I had Niesen-Beaumont replace them, and it was so perfectly tight, I was amazed at the accuracy of the auto pilot. Unfortunately, that was the same day I blew the oil cooler and now have the engine, outdrive and transom plate in the garage. I have 2 spare sets of nylon bushings and the seal in the garage just to rebuild the spare transom plates and decide which one to reinstall.

I changed all my steering bushings a few years ago and brought the slop back down to 1"-2". Most of the remaining slop is in the linkage between the ram and the steering arm. No bushings to change in tose pieces, so I'll need to pull the parts, enlarge the hole and have some bushings made to finish the job.

That sounds like to much work so I decided to just go fishing instead.

Mike

Phil, I noticed you said you changed the drive-shaft bearing on your boat at one time? Is this the main bearings in the bellhousing that you changed? What is the best way to lubricate those bearings and shaft in the bellhousing? What type of lube? Anyone? I want to lube it up if possible before I reinstall the bellhousing on my motor.

The driveshaft bearing the bearing on the stubshaft you see when you take the outdrive off. DON'T try to lube this bearing...the shaft should be lubed.....

The bearing is a 6206 if my memory is correct....
Get a double rubber sealed bearing (late version)....I bought mine from volvo for about $20
If you look around, I am sure you could save $10 :D

Don't break the plastic bushings as they as more $$$$
Phil

I don't need to take it apart and replace anything, I just thought to pump some lube in there through that screw on the outside of the bellhousing if applicable? And didn't know what kind or how.