40A valve adj

[Moo Fish]

What happened to the tutorial on adjusting the valves??

Quoting the manual, "adjust the valve clearance for Clyinder 1 with the piston in the firing postion. The valves on the Clyinder 6 will then "rock"."

What is the firing position and what is "rock"??

Valve cover off and ready to tag the bolt on the pulley. Anybody adjusting the valves on a 40 series, give me a shout---rt

[NoSlack]

When I get home(4pm), I'll e-mail the whole thing to ya.

The book talks about a mark on the main pulley that you line up to know you're at #1 or 180 out from #1. I've never seen this mark on the engines I've done a valve adjustment on, so I find #1 firing position by feel and make my own mark on the pulley.

With the glow plugs out you should be able to rotate the engine with a 15/16" socket on nut in the center of the main pulley.

Here is what I remember off the top of my head:
Rotate the engine around and watch the valves on #1. There will be a window that both valve remain still( not in contact with the cam). In that window you are at #1 firing or 180 degrees out. Eather place is OK to adjust the valves. Move the engine 1/3 of a turn and do the next set. 1/3 of a turn for the next set and so on until you're done.

Mike

[NoSlack]

Valve Clearance Adjustment
(AQD3O and AQD4O)

The valves should be adjusted every 200 hours of operation or at least once a year. Valves may be adjusted with the engine warm or cold, but the engine must be off. Valves are adjusted in the same sequence as the engine firing order. The 4-cylinder firing order is 1-3-4-2; the 6-cylinder firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Intake and exhaust valve clearance is 0.016 in. (0.40 mm). Refer to Figure 1
(4-cylinder) or Figure 2 (6-cylinder) for this procedure.

Fylwheel end

Flywheel end

1. Remove the rocker arm cover.

2. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the 0 degree mark on the flywheel aligns with the timing pointer in the flywheel housing cutout(Figure 3). This will place the No.1 cylinder in firing position. This position can be verified by placing a finger on the No. 1 rocker arms as the pulley notch nears the zero mark. If the valves are moving, the engine is in the No.4 firing position and the pulley should be rotated another full turn to reach the No.1 firing position.



3. Check the clearance of both No.1 cylinder valves by inserting a 0.016 in. flat feeler gauge between the lifter heel and the end of the valve stem (Figure 4). If adjustment is required, loosen the adjusting screw locknut and turn the screw until the clearance is correct. Without turning the screw farther, tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance.



4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 1/2 turn (4-cylinder) or 1/3 turn
(6-cylinder). Repeat Step 2 to check and adjust the clearance of both No. 3 cylinder valves (4-cylinder) or both No. 5 valves (6-cylinder). Note: There are 105 teeth on my flywheel. That is 38 1/3 teeth to the next firing position. More acuarate that guessing what 1/3 of a turn looks like.

5. Check the clearance of the remaining valves following the firing order sequence. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 1/2 turn(4-cylinder) or 1/3 turn (6-cylinder) after checking or adjusting each pair of valves.

6. Install the rocker arm cover with a new gasket. Tighten cover screws to
7 ft.-lb. (10 N.m).

Tools: .016” feeler gauge, Large flat blade screwdriver, 13mm wrench for the valve cover and lock nuts and a
½” drive ratchet and 15/16” socket for turning the engine over.

AQAD40


Remove Cover


Lift Cover


Fig 4 (adjusting #1)


Rotate Engine


Adjusting #2

[saltwaters]

That is an excellent post, great photos as well.

I'm printing that one.

Thanks

Bill

[Moo Fish]

.......figure 2, is that the flywheel or belt pulley on the righthand side of the block?? The shallow nut on the pulley is a knuckle buster!!...rt

[NoSlack]

The flywheel in on the right and forward is on the left in figures 1 and 2. I edited the post with a note by the pictures to help clear that up.

I should have included a photo of my tool that goes over the main pulley bolts. the tool has a 15/16" nut welded on it so I can use a larger socket to turn over the engine.

I match up the white dot on the tool to the hole in my pulley and when the marks 1/6, 3/4, 5/2 are at 12 o'clock, that is the cylinder that is firing.

Mike

[saltwaters]

Mike,

That's a nice tool. Did you make it yourself and was it hard to make?

One other question, How tight do you make the valve adjustment? Does the feeler gauge barely move when it's adjusted properly or move relatively easily? Should the next size blade fit in the gap or not?

I've been adjusting valves since my days of owning VW's and am not sure how tight they should be.

Bill

[NoSlack]

Bill

I edited the post above and added a drawing of the tool with dimensions. I made the tool out of 1/4 plate.

If you make one, your reference mark may be in a different spot than mine. I have a hole in the outer edge of the pulley that I use as my refference mark.

Mike

[Moo Fish]

.........got the VP manual interpreted and got with the program. Cylinders 1 and 6 loose on the exhaust and tight on the inlet. Reset to the .40mm mark. Any difference? The valve adjustment tuned out an idle vibration (based on the rattling stereo speaker that is no longer ratttling) Make sure to crank down on the lock nuts. The toughest part of the job is keeping the rachet on the shallow pulley nut (ouch!).....rt

[NoSlack]

I'm bumping this one back to the top. Someone was asking about valve adjustments at the BBQ today